Hangzhou: Moganshan Lodge

Moganshan Lodge

Situated about two hours outside Hangzhou in east China’s Zhejiang province, Moganshan has long been famous as a getaway for the urbane rich of Hangzhou and nearby Shanghai. The history of this small mountainside settlement goes back over 1000 years, though for many the village will be forever linked to the glamour of colonial era Shanghai.

From the late 19th century to the liberation of 1949 businessmen, politicians and gangsters from all over the world came here to build splendid mansions in which to enjoy the summer months. The cooling climes of Moganshan must have been a real tonic in the seething Shanghai summer – especially in the days before air conditioning.

Moganshan is still popular during the summer, though to enjoy The Lodge at its best you should really head there in the middle of winter. In the colder months, the peak is regularly covered in snow and near deserted – perfect for exploring the meandering paths that flay through the bamboo forest and tea plantations of the mountainside.

Walkers could be forgiven for thinking they have stumbled back in time if they should find themselves at the Moganshan Lodge. The Lodge is a café, restaurant and bar owned by the first foreigner to live on the mountain in over 50 years. Set in a modern block in the centre of the village, the interior of this is both dark colours and wood finishes – a décor that mixes rustic modernity with classic colonial touches.

At The Lodge every effort is made to create a comforting retreat. As in the early days of the settlement, it is a retreat from hectic work and social life. In another sense, it is a retreat from the ravages of the mountain.

This is outstanding walking country, though after a day exposed to the elements walkers will look forward to a roaring fire, warm meal and bone-warming bottle of booze. Fortunately, The Lodge supplies all of these, and though the prices may be on a par with Shanghai, the service is far more personable and considerate than anything you are likely to find in the metropolis.

Address:
The Moganshan Lodge, Songliang Shanzhuang, Yin Shan Jie, Moganshan.

Tel 0572 8033011
Email: rose@moganshanlodge.com

Hi,
Please advise how do i get to the Lodge by public transport from Shanghai. Also, which hotel would you recommend to a foreigner, which is safe and clean.
Thank you

Thanks for your question, anonymous. Hangzhou is the closest public transport hub to Moganshan, with trains running there hourly from Shanghai south railway station. Transport from Hangzhou to Moganshan can be difficult, however. I believe there is a bus from Hangzhou north bus station, though I am unsure of times. An alternative is to take a taxi from Hangzhou train station, although be aware that the driver may wish to pick up other passengers en route. For information on how to arrange a private vehicle from Shanghai or Hangzhou, please contact the ChinaSpringTour customer service department.

Oh, and I would also recommend emailing Rose at the lodge for information on hotels. I very much enjoyed staying at Yi Yuan Villa - which is house number 92. It's clean and attractive with a kind and hospitable staff. Please let me know if you like it!